“Every day, you can create a new cheese. It’s all in your hands,” says Sevda İyem, her fingers deftly shaping a fresh block in the kitchen of her family guesthouse, perched above the stunning Macahel Valley near the Turkish-Georgia border.

Each morning, as the first light filters over the lush forests of this UNESCO biosphere reserve in the Kaçkar Mountains, İyem begins her day by milking her cows by hand.

Just below the balcony, where guests will soon gather for a homemade breakfast, stands a quaint cowshed with panoramic views—undoubtedly one of the most scenic spots for dairy farming. Inside, four cows, including three expectant mothers, await her skilled touch. “Milking requires a quick, firm motion,” İyem explains. “You don’t yank or pull—just squeeze from top to bottom, and the bucket fills.”

Her connection with the cows goes beyond routine. “I talk to them all day,” she says through an interpreter. “We have an ongoing conversation. I understand what they need and want.”

Nestled in this alpine sanctuary, life is simple yet rich, shaped by the region’s biodiversity and its enduring traditions. The village lifestyle, with women as its backbone, thrives on tending the land and caring for livestock, just as it has for generations.

“I love village life. City life isn’t for me,” İyem admits. She and her husband, Mevlüt, transformed his family’s once-neglected home into the tranquil guesthouse it is today. Initially, they split their time between here and winters in Istanbul, but now they live in the village year-round. During the colder months, İyem even takes care of her neighbors’ cows when they migrate.

The guesthouse, with its simple wooden interiors, traditional rugs, and handmade placemats, feels like a nostalgic step back in time. Every window offers breathtaking views, but it’s İyem’s lovingly prepared meals that truly steal the show.

A Culinary Haven

In İyem’s kitchen, cheese-making is an everyday ritual. “She makes at least 15 types of cheese,” her interpreter explains, “including four traditional varieties unique to this region. The others are her own creations.” Some cheeses are fresh and meant to be eaten within a week, while others are aged to perfection.

Her innovations include flavors infused with toasted sesame, zucchini flowers, parsley, dill, or other herbs. Cheeses are preserved in oil, jars, or seasoned with salt and spices. Nothing goes to waste here—the morning’s milk is churned by hand, with cream reserved for breakfast, while leftovers are used in bread-making. Even cheese remnants are boiled with milk to create new culinary delights.

Breakfast at the guesthouse is a feast of Turkish and Georgian flavors, featuring a variety of cheeses, from stringy çeçil to sharp tulum. The table is adorned with fresh cherry and blackberry preserves, molasses, tahini, and hazelnut-walnut tomato paste. Locally produced honey, courtesy of Caucasian honey bees, adds sweetness to the spread, alongside fresh vegetables, olives, and homemade bread.

To complement the meal, guests sip on delicate glasses of tea—a staple of the Black Sea region, known for its steep tea plantations. Turkey’s love affair with tea is unmatched, boasting the highest consumption per capita in the world.

Love in Every Detail

Running a traditional, labor-intensive guesthouse isn’t easy, but for İyem, it’s a labor of love. “If I didn’t enjoy it, it would be torture. But I do it with great passion,” she says.

Her dedication doesn’t go unnoticed. “I love seeing my guests enjoy the food. I’ve never had anyone say they didn’t like it. That’s such a wonderful feeling.”

In this peaceful mountain retreat, İyem offers more than just hospitality—she shares the essence of a simpler, more meaningful way of life.