For anyone who overplucked their eyebrows in the 1990s and thought they’d never recover, there’s good news: the barely-there brow is making a bold return.

For more than a decade, thick, well-groomed eyebrows popularized by celebrities like Cara Delevingne and Zoe Kravitz have dominated beauty standards. But if red carpets and TikTok are anything to go by, the 90s-inspired skinny brow is stepping back into the spotlight. Earlier this year at Paris Fashion Week, makeup artist Pat McGrath created ultra-thin, arched brows for Maison Margiela’s models. By May, the Met Gala saw stars like Zendaya, FKA Twigs, and Doja Cat embracing bleached and pencil-thin brows.

But while these styles suit the bone structure of Hollywood elites, they can look different on everyday faces. Brow expert Hollie Parkes points out that today’s skinny brows aim to accentuate features rather than replicate the harsh, over-tweezed look of the past. “If you’re considering a slim brow, consult a professional,” she advises.

Why Brows Are Personal

Kamini Vaghela, a London-based brow expert with over 35 years of experience, emphasizes that eyebrows should always suit the individual. “Your brows are unique,” she says. “Trends come and go, but your bone structure, eye shape, and skin tone don’t change.” Kamini, who brought threading to the West in 2001, encourages working with what you already have instead of chasing fleeting fads.

Many, like 42-year-old Londoner Jenni Parks, have regrets about following trends in the past. “My brows never fully recovered after over-plucking in the 90s,” she shares. Jenni tried various fixes, including microblading, which she found painful and ineffective. Her eventual solution—permanent makeup—restored her confidence.

Brows Through the Ages

Eyebrow trends have always reflected societal norms. Beauty historian Lucy Jane Santos explains that the preference for thick or thin brows has cycled through history. In Ancient Greece and Rome, thick, dark brows were prized, sometimes even as a single unibrow. By contrast, women of the Middle Ages favored sparse brows, often plucking their hairlines to create an elongated forehead—a sign of intelligence and beauty.

In the 20th century, eyebrow fashion evolved rapidly. The 1920s ushered in pencil-thin brows, popularized by silent film actresses who used dramatic facial expressions to communicate emotion. By the 1940s, natural brows returned, reflecting the wartime focus on practicality. The 60s revived thin brows, epitomized by Twiggy, while the 80s brought back thick, untamed brows thanks to icons like Brooke Shields and Madonna.

Men and the Brow Game

Historically, eyebrow grooming has largely been associated with women. While ancient Egyptian men also enhanced their brows with makeup, trends for men have been fewer and subtler. Notable exceptions include David Bowie’s shaved brows in 1974 and the 80s eyebrow slits rooted in hip-hop culture.

Today, eyebrow grooming is becoming more common among men. According to Shavata Singh, founder of Shavata Brow Studios, male clients typically seek either perfectly groomed brows or a natural, rugged look. Brands have responded to this growing interest with products like Chanel’s Boy de Chanel eyebrow pencil and Tom Ford’s Brow Definer gel.

The Best Approach

For anyone looking to repair or enhance their brows, Kamini recommends skipping expensive serums in favor of natural solutions like castor oil. “It stimulates growth and keeps brows soft,” she says.

Ultimately, trends shouldn’t dictate how you wear your brows. “Not every shape suits every face,” Kamini concludes. “Find what works for you and embrace it. Individuality always trumps trends.”

Whether you’re revisiting 90s nostalgia or sticking to your natural look, one thing is clear: eyebrows will always be a defining feature in the ever-changing landscape of beauty.